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| Producer | Domaine des Comtes Lafon |
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| Country | France |
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| Region | Burgundy |
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| Subregion | Volnay |
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| Varietal | Pinot Noir |
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| Vintage | 2021 |
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| Sku | 210000022878 |
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| Size | 750ml |
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The Champans seemed to me a significant step up in quality among the reds in Lafon’s cellar. There is a lovely, ripe black plum fruit with notes of earth and smoke. The texture was tannic, yet the tannins seemed fine-grained, with no astringent edge. A lively, fresh acidity pulled the wine to a winningly long finish. The grapes come from the domaine’s half-hectare in Champans, and are carefully sorted and destemmed before a gentle fermentation on native yeast and ageing in mainly older casks.
Notes of blackberries, cherries and spices introduce Lafon's 2021 Volnay 1er Cru Champans, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy wine built around lively acids and melting tannins, concluding with an orange-inflected finish. It's unusually suave and charming for a young Champans.
The 2021 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru was picked early on the second day of picking. It has a reserved, Pommardlike bouquet with blackberry and briary, hints of crushed strawberry and damp undergrowth. The palate is crunchy on the entry, like the Clos des Chênes, elegant with a little more spiciness on the finish. Lovely. Four barrels were produced.
A slightly more deeply pitched nose is comprised by notes of pretty red currant, plum, crushed anise and violet. There is both better volume and density to the nicely rich and attractively textured medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a lingering, youthfully austere and slightly firmer finale.
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