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Producer | Louis Michel & Fils |
Country | France |
Region | Burgundy |
Subregion | Chablis |
Varietal | Chardonnay |
Vintage | 2022 |
Sku | 210000024661 |
Size | 750ml |
Guillaume Michel observes that Les Clos is 'never ready to drink'. A powerful, compact and fine grand cru which has loads of potential. The vines were planted in 1968, on limestone/clay soils over oyster shell-rich marl. Density, a touch of spice, concentrated but also light on its feet. This will spend several more months in tank and will undoubtedly be a slow maturer. Will be very fine, but will need several years to show its best.
A more restrained and equally cool nose grudgingly reveals its aromas of oyster shell, ocean spray, just sliced citrus and wet stone. There is again excellent volume and a sappy texture to the almost painfully intense and overtly powerful larger-bodied flavors that brim with minerality that adds a sense of lift to the compact, dry and sneaky long finish. Like all fine examples of Les Clos, this is clearly going to need at least 6 to 8 years of bottle aging and should amply repay 10 to 12.
The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru comes from a single 0.58-hectare parcel located midway up the incline towards Valmur. This expressive bouquet has yellow plum, wet stone and light hazelnut aromas, oddly reminding me of a fine Meursault! The well-balanced palate is taut and fresh, with a fine line of acidity and a malic finish that is more austere than the aromatics suggest. Maybe that leaves you wanting a little more? Ergo, I'd cellar this for 2-4 years.