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The 2017 Vat 1 Semillon represents an excellent Semillon vintage in the Hunter Valley, and it is here that we start to see the majesty of aged Semillon begin to unfold. Sun-drenched hay, caper brine, wisps of black tea, crushed shells, a whiff of Szechuan peppercorn, lemongrass, green apples and cold buttered toast. In the mouth, the wine is texturally silky (with a weighty fall, like heavy gauge silk) and lingering. It moves with momentum rather than outright speed (like watching a whale shark swim: they might move slowly, but they swim fast), and it has a clarity and freshness in the mouth that is astounding. This is a super wine, an evocative wine, an imaginative wine. It's a wine on the up, with miles to go before it sleeps...
A later-released iteration, dubbed 'Winemaker's Selection'. A wondrous nose of buttered milk toast, a lick of lime brulee, nashi pear, wet pebble stone and yellow plum. A looser knit, warmer expression. Lightweight analytically, but more plump and medium-bodied of feel, nigh on hitting its optimal straps. A sublime, warmer vintage expression in the prime of its life. Drink or hold. Screw cap.
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