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Producer | Alvina Pernot |
Country | France |
Region | Burgundy |
Subregion | Puligny-Montrachet |
Varietal | Chardonnay |
Vintage | 2022 |
Sku | 210000024012 |
Size | 750ml |
The Clos de la Garenne is an enclave surrounded by woods — one can well imagine a rabbit warren (garenne) here. It is just down the slope from the Pernot family vines in Jacquelotte and up from Boillot's Clos de la Mouchère. In 2022, it produced a wine with abundant tension and lemony fruit with an accent of flint and flowers. Philippe Abadie mentions that good access to water helps it ripen in a hot year; the grapes are pressed as whole clusters in a vertical press and fermented with all their lees in older casks.
I appreciate that this sounds as though I lack imagination but once again there is a distinct coolness to the restrained nose that grudgingly offers up its combination of white flower, Granny Smith apple, lemongrass and plenty of smoky mineral reduction. On the palate the medium weight flavors exude an almost palpable stoniness that the mouthfeel is akin to rolling tiny pebbles around while the bone-dry, crisp and moderately austere finale flashes excellent length. This is impressive and also quite tightly wound so at least moderate patience is strongly advised.