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| Producer | Baricci |
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| Country | Italy |
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| Region | Tuscany |
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| Subregion | Brunello di Montalcino DOCG |
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| Varietal | Sangiovese Grosso |
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| Vintage | 2017 |
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| Sku | 210000021048 |
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| Size | 750ml |
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With the first tilt of the glass, you know that this is not your average 2017 Brunello di Montalcino. An enthralling bouquet of spiced citrus peels, roses, sour cherries, crushed rocks and animal musk keeps you at the edge of your seat. This is remarkably pure and delicate, seeming to hover across the palate, yet delivering a vivid mix of ripe wild berries, salty minerals and purple-tinged florals. Beneath, saturated tannins build, yet the expression remains fresh – almost mouthwatering, in fact – as sweet hints of plum and tobacco slowly fade. While the Baricci family doesn’t market their wine as a cru, this is indeed 100% Montosoli fruit from one of the region's top winemaking families. Bravo.
Proudly from Montosoli, the Baricci 2017 Brunello di Montalcino shows a generous and authentic personality with earthy tones, dried fruit, ripe cherry and roasted herb. This warm-vintage wine is elegant and pure, although there is a meaty or smoky note that is part and parcel of the 2017 vintage. This wine registers 15% alcohol and a thick, open-knit texture. It could use a bit more fruit definition, and I would recommend a near or medium-term drinking window for this bottle.
The 2017 vintage is significant for this estate as it is the year founder Nello Baricci passed away at the age of 96. His grandsons, Federico and Francesco Buffi are now at the helm. Baricci’s Brunello needs a few swirls to unleash striking scents of berry compote, flint and smoke. The palate is dense with berries – all cherry skin and pulp - and garden herbs. It is well-framed by chewy tannins with a pulverised stone texture. Though this shows its heat, there is an underlying lift. The finish reveals a pleasant bitterness, rather than sweetness, which cleanses the mouth.
Blood and iron flavors frame the earth- and cherry-filled core of this firm, dry red. Though linear in profile, there is complexity here, offering a lively beam of acidity for lift. Tips to the dry side on the finish.
Aromas of underbrush, toasted nut and eucalyptus shape the nose along with whiffs of blue flower and coconut. The warm, brawny palate offers dried cherry and licorice alongside the heat of evident alcohol. Firm, close-grained tannins provide the backbone. Give the tannins a few more years, then drink sooner rather than later to catch the remaining fruit richness.
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