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| Producer | Domaine des Comtes Lafon |
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| Country | France |
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| Varietal | White |
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| Vintage | 2020 |
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| Sku | 210000022883 |
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| Size | 750ml |
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Abundant aromas of ripe apple fruit, with a full complement of butter and spice underpinned with a pronounced minerality, but there is no excess here. The wine is powerful and dense but not heavy, and the balance and definition are sublime. A towering achievement. Lafon remarked that the Montrachet took its time to ripen, yet there was enough water to sustain the vines. Indeed, the wine fermented out to just 13% alcohol instead of many vineyards which were at or above 14%. Fermentation was in 45% new casks.
Soaring from the glass with aromas of buttered orchard fruit, honeycomb, orange oil, peach and nutmeg, the 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, rich and satiny, with a layered, muscular mid-palate that's girdled by lively acids and a long, resonant finish. This is an expressive, dramatic Montrachet that can comfortably keep company with the superb 2017, 2018 and 2019 vintages.
The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru, which this year is matured in one-third new oak instead of 100%, has a very mineral-driven bouquet with impressive focus and vibrancy. I think that prudent approach to the new oak reveals more of that prized Montrachet "dirt". Very expressive and transparent. The palate is brilliantly balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, spicy and taut with veins of stem ginger and silex towards the persistent finish. Stunning.
Pungent aromas of wood and reduction dominate the underlying fruit today. Otherwise, there is outstanding volume to the very punchy and superbly powerful big-bodied flavors that stain the palate with dry extract on the incredibly compact yet massively persistent finish. Despite the imposing size, weight and concentration, this remains impeccably well-balanced, indeed it's quite Zen-like. One of the wines of the vintage.
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